Recently we needed petrol, and having been waved on from at least two stations (they were out of fuel) we joined the mayhem at a third. Once on the forecourt we located a pump dispensing "benzine". There were three rows of cars converging on this pump and we crept forwards little by little all the while jockeying for position. Just for fun while in the queue I noted the people that appeared at the car window. They tried to sell us:

Chewing gum, socks, CDs, Odd DVDs including one entited ‘Amharic for Vistors’ (their mistake not mine), Pirated DVDs, lottery tickets, phone top-up cards, injera in a basket lined with the printed torn out pages from a book, belts, mobile phone covers, electronic bits and pieces, and of course several beggars simply wanting money.

As part of our orientation this week we have had some training on culture which is fascinating when you see it in action so allow me to share.

 Ethiopian society is built on relationship. There are different ways of greeting dependent on age, status or familiarity. I reflected on an Ethiopian family that we have come to know better over time. When we first met a handshake was appropriate, later I received three kisses on alternate cheeks, now it’s five. Phil also now gets the ‘shoulder bump’ which includes a slight hug, and is a common male greeting.

Brothers and sisters are a person’s responsibility even if they are married as are older relatives who must be financially supported because there is no social security system. That’s why Seble (our house worker) checks on the welfare of her brother and her mum regularly, traveling by several taxis to achieve this. Recently she sorted out the funeral of her mum’s sister as well.

Ethiopian society also relies on networks. Seble was so happy that through us she knew Phil’s sister who was very generous towards her. At a wedding a bride will give a number of invitations to her siblings to invite their friends. She may not have met them, but they are part of her network as they know a member of her family!

Here in Ethiopia the event is more important than time. In both the weddings that we have attended the published schedule did not bear any resemblance to what happened on the day. Birthdays in school are also huge. Ethiopian parents will arrive with cake, crisps, party bags, table cloths, balloons and videographer in tow as well is not unknown.

Finally, Ethiopians value harmony over justice. We were told the story of an Ethiopian man who told his taxi driver that the last part of a journey included a bumpy road, so they agreed a price. They drove along until they reached the bumpy road, at which point the taxi stopped and the driver demanded more money to complete the journey. The passenger was cross so both men got out to carry on a heated discussion. Onlookers gathered and persuaded the aggrieved passenger to pay up and walk away. Why? Because the taxi driver was a bad man but the passenger would raise his status in the community and become known for his kindness and generosity.

There was an occasion last term when Seble was asked to come to Bingham for a meeting on a day she was not assigned to work, but we were not allowed to pay her for this. I felt it unfair but Seble’s response was “it’s OK, it’s just what we do”.

I’ll end this post on a more trivial note. How many matches does it take to light a candle? Answer: usually three or four. Why is this? Well they vary greatly in quality; some matches are wide some are narrow, some have a large head some do not. Sometimes two are joined together. The variety found in a box of matches is just a small example of what you will find replicated all over the city that is Addis Ababa.